aparentemente funcionou comigo, fui em configurações do dispositivo, modo de disparo externo e escolhi a opçao seguinte modo
Conecte à chave de travamento, chave SPDT. Ou conecte ao sensor de contato seco. O status do relé seguirá o status do comutador externo ou sensor externo.
apparently it worked for me, I went to device settings, external shooting mode and chose the following mode option
Connect to the locking switch, SPDT switch. Or connect to the dry contact sensor. The relay status will follow the status of the external switch or external sensor.
This is my reply from support
Lets clarify some wiring terminology
The word “Gang” represents how many switches there are on a single wall plate.
1 Gang, a single switch on a single plate. 2 Gang, two switches on one plate. 3 Gang, three switches and so on.
The word “way” tells you how many switches control the same light or group of lights
1 way, one switch controls one light or one group of lights.
2 way, two switches controls the same light or group.
3 way, three switches controls the same light or group and so on.
The switches themselves come in three types 1 way or 2 way or an intermediate. You can only use a 1 way in a 1 way setup. But a 2 way switch you can use in all setups 1 way and 2 way 3 way and so on.
I always buy 2 way switches as they cost about the same and they are universal. Also if you are using it on a 1 way setup and you damage the screw or thread on the L1 side you can use the L2 screw or that side as a spare.
So if you buy a 3 Gang 2 way switch you get 3 switches on a single wall plate that all have 2 way capabilities.
If you are setting up a 3 way you need an intermediate switch and two 2 way switches. If you want a 4 way or more you just add more intermediate switches in the circuit.
This info I’m sure everyone knows but if you don’t.
The problem is the mini only uses around 3volt on the sw1
and sw2. Which works fine if you are using short wires.
But when you’re using long wires or 2 way or 3way or more that voltage isn’t enough. Old wires old switch or low quality switches also cause a problem with voltage drop.
Some people had problems when they turned the switch on the voltage between sw1 and sw2 wasn’t high enough to toggle the state so the lights didn’t come on.So the firmware was updated to make the sw1 and sw2 more sensitive and that caused a problem where it can detect false positives or if the wires are to long it’s detecting the voltage as pulses and each pulse causes the switch to change state flashing your lights.
The shorter your wires and the least amount of way (2,3,4way) the easer the fix if any actually work for you.
I’ve renewed the switches.
I’ve tried using a 104 capacitor.
None of which have worked for me but some others have had some luck with these fixes.
The only fix I can see working for everyone would be to change the Sonoff mini hardware to use 240/110 volts for the sw1 and sw2. There's differently a market for both a 3volt mini and 240volt mini.
So please bring out a Sonoff mini Plus : )
what would the solution be? a group of things? expect 3.7.0 firmware soon + capacitor?
because i am running 3.6.0 and still have problem, and weird thing is, only in bathroom... rest of house seems ok so far
is there any difference if I put capacitor in the S1/S2 Sonoff side or "s1/s2" switch side?
As they were installed above the plaster ceiling, it would be much easier installing capacitors in the wall switch side