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D1 switches on its own

My D1 Dimmer Module, controlled by Android app eweLink, switches on its own - apart from the timers set in the app. I already reinstalled and paired the D1 module without success.

Pairing had be difficult, too. My 9th attempt in Quick Pairing mode was successful, but did not solve the problem of randomly switching.


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I like your thinking Dr K, but I dont think it can be that. When it pairs, it beeps; no proper RF signal, no beep, so cant be pairing to a random signal. I think it must be something to do with initialisation (or lack of) in the ES7P001 microcontroller, which is allowing it to pick up spurious signals from the 590R chip, whether or not a remote was ever paired. I havent figured out whats going on in the ES7P001 yet, as it appears from the datasheet it can run in several modes (including acting as an analogue to digital converter, which might be converting the analogue OOK/ASK into data for the other microcontrollers.


The only thing absolutely conclusive is that its not in the ESP8285 chip, as that registers ghost switches as if there was had been a commanded event, even under different firmware (Tasmota).


The ghost switching both with AND without a registered RF433 is leading me towards the firmware in the ES7P001. Maybe, just maybe, re-pairing (repeatedly!) allows it to cycle through initialising its memory enough to overcome whatever gap there is in the initialisation process.


I think I have 4 dimmers now not ghost switching. My current test cycle is trying to force a working dimmer back into ghost switching, as that will reveal more about the workings of the microcontroller (without having tools to actually diagnose its code).

I have a speculation...

As a D1 not paired with a remote, every time it powers on, expects an RF remote signal, then it's possible that it mistakes any RF interference/signal occurring in that moment for a remote pairing signal and tunes it.
This might explain why also non-paired D1s suffer from ghost switching...

 

 


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Mateusz:

At this stage, I can only suggest two options for you (or anyone without the RF remote):
1) buy a remote, pair it to stop the ghost switching, then put it away if you don't need it,
2) if you want to try disabling the RF, then remove the resistors as the previous comment (apparently they can be crushed with a pair of pliers if you dont want to desolder them).

i have not proved it yet, but I suspect breaking the link between U2 and U1 on the comms board might also work (i.e. desoldering or cutting the top left pin on U2, or bottom right pin on U1). If that works, the problem is with the 590R chip, but if not, its a problem with the programming on the ES7P001 microcontroller. Unfortunately I dont have the tools to diagnose whats going on between those two chips, and I’m not prepared to risk trashing one of my dimmers to find out (as I actually want to use the RF switching).

With my tests so far, I have managed to get some sustained operation with NO ghost switching, AND I have managed to recreate ghost switching. I have a way to go to prove its all 100% repeatable, BUT I think the easiest cure at the moment is to sync with an RF remote whilst holding it REALLY close to the dimmer (like touching!). So far, even 30-50cm separation seems to risk ghost switching, but touching the remote to the dimmer whilst pairing seems to guarantee no ghost switching. I think the RF side of the control board is not rejecting false signals well enough, but getting it really close for pairing seems to get a better signal, so it seems to register the ID of the RF433 unit more reliably. As the problem is intermittent, it’ll take some more time to prove, but I’ll post more when I know.

Raphael:

R6 R7 R8 R9 + R11 R12 R13 R14 removed, let's see how it goes
from https://github.com/arendst/Tasmota/issues/7598

Post on 25 March 2020 by “kumy”


There are some photos of the boards in the thread too.


The more I read, the more convinced I am that they have left this poor devices firmware open to all sorts of vulnerabilities. Its the age old “do the minimum to make it work” rather than “control all the things that can happen so they don't cause unexpected results”. Proper error handling and active control of unused features would make these quite robust and reliable devices in their own way, but I’m not going to venture into re-writing firmware or desoldering components to loose features.


Happy reading, and desoldering :)

I'm having the same problem. I don't own the remote control, so i can't test the re-pairing stuff.

I'm having the same problem. I don't own the remote control, so i can't test the re-pairing stuff.


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Excellent info Dr Kildare :). Thanks. When I’ve completed all my tests, and maybe identified a cause, I’ll report my findings. No point going off half-cocked.

I initially paired my 2 D1s with their 2 remotes just out of the box after power and lamp connections.
No app installed yet, so no wifi connection.
Distance D1-remote when pairing no more than 30 cm.
Remotes were correctly working.
But a lot of ghost switching-on on both....

The second attempt many weeks after....
D1s were already registered in the app and correctly responding to commands (from app and Alexa), and Wifi connected.
One by one, un-paired the remotes, restarted the D1s and re-paired.
After that procedure no more ghost switching-on.
Since then there was also a firmware update but my D1s keep working correctly.

 

Quick question to anyone who still has the ghost switching problem; how far apart were your D1, RF433 (if used) and Wifi hub, both
- when initially paired together, and also 

- during operation, if different?


I’m working on a theory about the gain control in the RF circuit, which might be linked to the distance between components during either pairing or operation.

Yeah, the Sonoff eWeLink app is one of the worst IoT apps...

 

Nope, no option to do that in the app. No option to reboot, re-power or reconnect RF. Nice thought though :)

Maybe you can reboot the device from within the eWlink app, so without having to remove the power supply...

 

I’m so glad you asked! In attempting to compose a reply, I realise its not possible! Its easy to reset with the “broken chain link” button, but the only way to re-pair seems to be to power off and on to get it in the right state to accept the pairing again.


Leave it with me - I’ll get back to ITEAD and confirm.

How do you reset and re pair without powering down. That may be worth a try for me too.

Yeah, I think it must be interference, but I really dont understand how. I had problems even with the batteries out. I live in a detached property, so barely can detect wifi from my neighbours, let alone RF interference. I have some RF controlled christmas lights (not out now!) that are also 433MHz, and never get interference on those, so I’d be very surprised if its external. My working theory is that the D1 is just overly sensitive to internal triggering.


ITEAD support has suggested resetting the RF, but ensuring I DON’T power down in between reset and re-pair..


My first test seems to be going well, one D1 with one RF433 has been fine for the last 5 days. Time to add another to the same remote and see if there is cross-talk between the two D1’s. If it starts to go wrong, I’ll try the ITEAD support approach. Cant say I am optimistic though, given my experience so far.

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