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Sonoff T1 EU replacing Motor Clockwise/ Anticlockwise?

In the past I bought myself a Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 to control, in a case (see picture) a roller shutter. I was perfectly happy with this product and was willing to buy more for my other shutters. But then found out it was retired. Since then only 1 shutter is controlled by my smartphone.

Now I read about the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch. This might be the solution to my problem. In my opinion I could use the 2-gang version to replace the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise. There is only 1 catch. When using gang 1 the power to gang 2 should automatically be cut off. And when using gang 2 the power to gang 1 should automatically be cut off as well of course. Would this be possible?

Thank you up front for your help.

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I would like to upload a film, but unfortunately it exceeds the maximum size ;-(


Hello Henry, Are you stil using this solution? It is relaiable? I am thinking about to try it, but I have a question about the used relay. It must support 220v on the control pins rigth? I can not find this kind of relay. :(


Hi Nuno, Yes, I'm still using it. I live in The Netherlands but own a house in Germany as well. This house in Germany has 7 manually operated roller shutters. In one of them I mounted a motor and I control it as shown in the film

I have been using it in this set up for approx. 6 weeks now and it works great. I have a schedule; in the morning it goes up and in the evening it is closed. But I can operate it from The Netherlands as well if I want.

Now I know it is reliable I want to equip the other shutters with the same.

I use this relays; Finder It is "waterproof" and has 4 connections. See attached picture. So, if requirred, I can operate 4 roller shutters simultaneously. As long as it not exceeds 7A. You're correct. It supports 230V. The motor of the shutter is operated via 230V AC.

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Right, now everything make sense to me! But with this solution you cannot hide the relay inside the smart switch housing :(

Anyway, it is the cleverest solution I was see. many thanks to share it and to answer my question!

I can position the relays in the case of the shutter, see picture. Or I can place it behind the Sonoff T1 in a deep installation box, see other picture. If that doesn't fit I can remove (part of) the back plate of this installation box and make the hole for this installation box a bit deeper and put it there. The walls are 60 cm!!

In which country do you live? You can contact me if you want via henry(at)

Rolladen 1.JPG
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Yes! I am thinking the same way. I will try it out :)

Great. Please let me know which solution you will pick and if you encountered any problems during the process.

I will try this myself probably later this year. I have so many other things to do first. And this can be done during winter, it is inside the house.

If you're interested, I could supply you with these relays. The best way would be to send me an email.

Well, I has been searching and I will try to use one relay for each wall switch (instead of a relay for 8 switches). This way I hope to make it fit on the Portuguese installation boxes, because the relay itself is smaller. It look like this kind of relays are easy to buy.
However I need to order the switches too. For now I just can order Sarnoff devices from china,  so it will take a bit until I am ready to try it out.

I will keep in touch and back later with more info!

The one I showed you is slightly over 2 cm. The T1 EU doesn't need that much space. I can't check now, how much, it is in Gernany and I'm in The Netherlands at the moment.

In The Netherlands we have installation boxes with a depth of as much as 60 mm I think. According to me that should be sufficient space.

I bought the T1 EU 2-gang last February and it has cost me, including shipping costs to The Netherlands, € 13,11 (USD 15,67, see picture).

For the relays, I bought myself 25 pieces and I had to pay € 50,00 including shipping costs. I think this supplier has more of them available and he might even send them to you as well. I can ask him.

I've been thinking on the solution for a while. Yes, the relay is a good solution just it should be wired differently. Just get any 2 way relay (NO/NC) which is switched the ususal voltage (in our country it is 230V). Let's say L1 is Up and L2 is Down on the Sonoff TC1 2 gang. You should just directly connect the shutter's motor up to the Sonoff TC1 L1 and also just wire the control (in) of the relay to it as well. Then from L2 take the wire to the middle pin of the relay and then from NC to the Down of the shutter motor.

Make a scene in eWelink to switch off the L2 when L1 is on and vice versa and also a scene to just switch off both.

With this, when the L1 is on on Sonoff, it will switch on the relay as well which disconnects the L2 out physically from the Shutter motor in, so there won't be connected the Up and the Down in the same time. And also if both of the are off in the scene, the shutter will stop.
I've tried to draw it, see attached

Hi Henry,

i am really interested in your solution and i also live in the Netherlands.

Because i am not really expert in relé, i just get one question: is not a problem that the relé has always power on it? or is possible to configure the T1 switch just to send a pulse?


Thank you for your contribution.

Why should it be wired differently? I have been using it now for several months and it works great.

"Make a scene in eWelink to switch off the L2 when L1 is on and vice versa and also a scene to just switch off both.". This we discussed earlier in this thread. For me it's a no go area. Scene is not reliable. In case of an internet failure scene won't work. That was the thing, I wanted to avoid using scene.

Hi Giovanni,

Same here, I'm not an expert either ;-). That's why I needed help from the forum members here.

No, it's not a problem. According to me pulse is not a feature of the T1 EU.

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Let me declare your solution is perfect! One benefit of mine that you can use one button for Up and the other one for down, and it excludes the possibility of a software problem that can cause giving voltage for both inputs of the shutter motor, because when the L1 is on, the L2 is broken by the relay.
In my home the original physical switch is like a 2 gand switch, one switch is for up and the other is for down and if one of them is on and I try to turn on the other, the other one turns off physically. My relay solution simulates this.
If I build it intoi the wall turned 90 degrees, one of the touch will be upside and it turns the shutter on, and the other touch is down,  which can make the shutter down. If I switch off both of them, it will stop at the current state.
So the only difference from yours that it emulates the original physical switch (1 switch for up and the other for down) but physically protected against a software error.


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