Start a new topic

Sonoff T1 EU replacing Motor Clockwise/ Anticlockwise?

In the past I bought myself a Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 to control, in a case (see picture) a roller shutter. I was perfectly happy with this product and was willing to buy more for my other shutters. But then found out it was retired. Since then only 1 shutter is controlled by my smartphone.

Now I read about the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch. This might be the solution to my problem. In my opinion I could use the 2-gang version to replace the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise. There is only 1 catch. When using gang 1 the power to gang 2 should automatically be cut off. And when using gang 2 the power to gang 1 should automatically be cut off as well of course. Would this be possible?

Thank you up front for your help.

2 people like this idea

"But not "If I switch off both of them, it will stop at the current state.", Now you wrote "And if I want to stop the shutter I just have to press the actual button again"."

This is the same. When you switch on one of them, it will switch off the othes by scene therefore you have to press the switch which is On (only one can be On by scene). Like the old fashioned shutter switches.

Whit this I can say to Google assistant to Shutter up or Shutter down even if it is in the middle.

But I thing both solution (I mean yours and mine) is a good solution. For me the relay is needed only for the ensurance (I don'T trust in eWelink in 100% percent, but even when I'll turn to home assistant, az an ELectrical engineer I trust more in HW than SW :D)

I understood what you meant about the 2 operating buttons. But not "If I switch off both of them, it will stop at the current state.", Now you wrote "And if I want to stop the shutter I just have to press the actual button again".

You use the relay as a mechanical protection? That is in case of a malfunctioning scene function? Why not directly using the relay?

I left the scene function out and use only the relay.

I still feel that my solution suits me best. 1 Button for up/down and 1 button for stop. Furthermore, what you use as "protection", the relay, is my first choice. In this case I feel, less is more.

Maybe I was misunderstood. In my solution I have totally 2 buttons: one for up, and one for down. And if I want to stop the shutter I just have to press the actual button again, as  the traditional shutter switches work. The relay is used only for the physical protection against a software failure to not to be able to give the power for both inputs.

I don't see that as a benefit, sorry. I use 1 button for up/down and 1 button for stop. This latter button takes care of taking power of off the ralay. You use 2 buttons for up/down and 2 buttons for stop. My way is much simpler in my eyes. And I avoid scene. I'd rather rely on hardware than on a WiFi signal.

In my situation the relay takes care of safety in regards to just giving voltage to 1 input at the motor, And that with just 1 button.

But if you like your sytem better, it is okay of course. It is not a matter of right or wrong. It is a matter of preferences.

1 person likes this
Let me declare your solution is perfect! One benefit of mine that you can use one button for Up and the other one for down, and it excludes the possibility of a software problem that can cause giving voltage for both inputs of the shutter motor, because when the L1 is on, the L2 is broken by the relay.
In my home the original physical switch is like a 2 gand switch, one switch is for up and the other is for down and if one of them is on and I try to turn on the other, the other one turns off physically. My relay solution simulates this.
If I build it intoi the wall turned 90 degrees, one of the touch will be upside and it turns the shutter on, and the other touch is down,  which can make the shutter down. If I switch off both of them, it will stop at the current state.
So the only difference from yours that it emulates the original physical switch (1 switch for up and the other for down) but physically protected against a software error.


Hi Giovanni,

Same here, I'm not an expert either ;-). That's why I needed help from the forum members here.

No, it's not a problem. According to me pulse is not a feature of the T1 EU.

1 person likes this

Thank you for your contribution.

Why should it be wired differently? I have been using it now for several months and it works great.

"Make a scene in eWelink to switch off the L2 when L1 is on and vice versa and also a scene to just switch off both.". This we discussed earlier in this thread. For me it's a no go area. Scene is not reliable. In case of an internet failure scene won't work. That was the thing, I wanted to avoid using scene.

Hi Henry,

i am really interested in your solution and i also live in the Netherlands.

Because i am not really expert in relé, i just get one question: is not a problem that the relé has always power on it? or is possible to configure the T1 switch just to send a pulse?


I've been thinking on the solution for a while. Yes, the relay is a good solution just it should be wired differently. Just get any 2 way relay (NO/NC) which is switched the ususal voltage (in our country it is 230V). Let's say L1 is Up and L2 is Down on the Sonoff TC1 2 gang. You should just directly connect the shutter's motor up to the Sonoff TC1 L1 and also just wire the control (in) of the relay to it as well. Then from L2 take the wire to the middle pin of the relay and then from NC to the Down of the shutter motor.

Make a scene in eWelink to switch off the L2 when L1 is on and vice versa and also a scene to just switch off both.

With this, when the L1 is on on Sonoff, it will switch on the relay as well which disconnects the L2 out physically from the Shutter motor in, so there won't be connected the Up and the Down in the same time. And also if both of the are off in the scene, the shutter will stop.
I've tried to draw it, see attached

The one I showed you is slightly over 2 cm. The T1 EU doesn't need that much space. I can't check now, how much, it is in Gernany and I'm in The Netherlands at the moment.

In The Netherlands we have installation boxes with a depth of as much as 60 mm I think. According to me that should be sufficient space.

I bought the T1 EU 2-gang last February and it has cost me, including shipping costs to The Netherlands, € 13,11 (USD 15,67, see picture).

For the relays, I bought myself 25 pieces and I had to pay € 50,00 including shipping costs. I think this supplier has more of them available and he might even send them to you as well. I can ask him.

Well, I has been searching and I will try to use one relay for each wall switch (instead of a relay for 8 switches). This way I hope to make it fit on the Portuguese installation boxes, because the relay itself is smaller. It look like this kind of relays are easy to buy.
However I need to order the switches too. For now I just can order Sarnoff devices from china,  so it will take a bit until I am ready to try it out.

I will keep in touch and back later with more info!

Great. Please let me know which solution you will pick and if you encountered any problems during the process.

I will try this myself probably later this year. I have so many other things to do first. And this can be done during winter, it is inside the house.

If you're interested, I could supply you with these relays. The best way would be to send me an email.

Yes! I am thinking the same way. I will try it out :)

I can position the relays in the case of the shutter, see picture. Or I can place it behind the Sonoff T1 in a deep installation box, see other picture. If that doesn't fit I can remove (part of) the back plate of this installation box and make the hole for this installation box a bit deeper and put it there. The walls are 60 cm!!

In which country do you live? You can contact me if you want via henry(at)

Rolladen 1.JPG
(3.56 MB)

1 person likes this

Right, now everything make sense to me! But with this solution you cannot hide the relay inside the smart switch housing :(

Anyway, it is the cleverest solution I was see. many thanks to share it and to answer my question!

Login or Signup to post a comment