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Sonoff T1 EU replacing Motor Clockwise/ Anticlockwise?

In the past I bought myself a Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 to control, in a case (see picture) a roller shutter. I was perfectly happy with this product and was willing to buy more for my other shutters. But then found out it was retired. Since then only 1 shutter is controlled by my smartphone.


Now I read about the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch. This might be the solution to my problem. In my opinion I could use the 2-gang version to replace the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise. There is only 1 catch. When using gang 1 the power to gang 2 should automatically be cut off. And when using gang 2 the power to gang 1 should automatically be cut off as well of course. Would this be possible?


Thank you up front for your help.


2 people like this idea

Clear, but to what do I use this arduino? This is all fully new to me. For you this might all sound quite simple. For me it isn't, trust me ;-). I would prefer to use Sonoff because of the fact I already use several different types of Sonoff already. If I would decide to use an arduino, would this be controlled bij eWeLink as well? You are probably right about a 'library' already existing. The difficulty is finding it.
Oh, btw, I really appreciate your effort in trying to help me.
Can I talk about sonoff in this Arduino website? Are they competitors?

 

No, not competitors, it is reasonably common to use them together. The Arduino chip is generally much better, but can’t connect to wifi without help. If you add one of the ESP chips to an arduino it can connect to wifi. That is roughly what Sonoff do with their SC model. If you don’t want to connect it to wifi anyway you could do it all with an arduino anyway. I am pretty sure if you search for ESP in the ‘playground’ it will show loads. There is plenty of ESP stuff too, but I don’t know if any platforms that are as well setup for learning.
I mailed Arduino and asked if I can talk about Sonoff in their forum and this is what they replied:

"Hello Henry,

We have limited ability to advise and support non Arduino products, therefore, since this product is not manufactured by us, we kindly recommend you to contact its manufacturer directly so they can give you the information you need. 


Kind Regards,
"

So, better not I think ;-).

 

I’m sorry. I misunderstood you. I thought you just meant would there be a problem if you mention an ESP chip in an arduino related post & get help from the normal posters. I still don’t think that’d be a problem. For purely ESP related things there are different communities, but everything is made so much less daunting for learning with a device that doesn’t need soldering, already has built in communication and there are easily accessible guides. If it were just a case of using a standard firmware image and uploading it I’m sure you could find instructions, but I think you will need to download the source code, adjust it and compile it yourself. Without having seen how easy it can be with a simular platform I don’t think you’d try.
I nearly dare to try anything ;-). I replaced the timing belt of my Mondeo diesel, repaired my central heating boiler and washing machine. I even built a large shed with cavity walls. This was the first time I did some bricklaying. Everything to the electrical system in our houses I do myself. And all the plumbing as well.

So, I like a challenge ;-). But with this matter I wouldn't know where/how to start.


 

Knowing that just adds to my impression that you can do this, which is why I thought jumping straight into writing custom firmware for a chip on a board onto which you have soldered, not to mention that for remote internet control you will have to setup an MQTT broker… You may not have any experience with programming in C/C++ too…trying to do everything at once is daunting.
I totally don't have any experience in this field. Another thing is that english is not my native language. These two facts together are making it very hard to try and understand where/how I should start.

 

I managed to figure out how scene works, see film/pictures. But it is too risky. The T1 EU can still be manually operated which could damage the motor of my roller shutter.


But this would be what I need with interlock mode.

T1 EU 2.png
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T1 EU 1.png
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Images are a bit blurry, but from the video I think I understand. I wouldn’t trust scenes either. They are working for local control, but I doubt that includes local scenes. Incidentally, do you know how your blind works?
What do you mean by "do you know how your blind works?"? The motor has "auto stop". Is that what you mean?
No, I mean the actual PCB and wiring of the blind. I was just thinking how they have designed it so the motor can turn both ways through an AC current. It is possible they have already solved your problem for you and it would not be dangerous to have a live wire connected to both at once.
The motor has 4 wires; L1, L2, N and ground. I think that as soon as the motor stops at the position I have set up it switches from L1 to L2 or vice versa. The wire remains live untill I activate the other switch. This is the motor I have: https://www.jalousiescout.de/rolladenmotoren/rohrmotor/jm-35-100.html
I think todays European server collapse (again) proves you are right to not trust scene. I was actually trying to imagine how the AC current motor in your blind works in two directions. Maybe there are two motors, maybe they convert to DC or maybe they have PCB - to reverse an AC motor I think you just reverse the two wires to the starter coils. My guess is they just use a PCB: L1 to Neutral active connect forward L2 to neutral active connect backward I was just trying to imagine how they do this and what would happen if there was a connection to both L1 and L2.
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