Hello from cold Russia.
1)Don't use the grounding wire to connect N pin on your wall switch. If you don't want to win Darwin award.
Look at the first picture.
2)Use capasitors to connect the switch and the bulb.
Look at the second picture.
C1 - Capacity. Metal-film capacitor for 400 volts.
It works as a "quenching capacitor" or "resistance". In order for the "part of the current" to remain on the switch and feed it, in the switched on position of the key.
C2 - Capacity. Metal-film capacitor for 400 volts.
Works as a "bypass" resistor. Serves to ensure that energy-saving gas-discharge or LED lamps do not blink (from the current passing through them supplying the switch) in the off position of the key.
Use LED or GAS lamps only. Only low power consumtion devices.
First column - "Type of bulb"
P1 - power of BULB in WATTS.
C1 - quenching capacitor - 1,5 micro Farades to 3,3.
C2 - 0.47 micro Farades. (that solution is need if your LED lamp is cheap, there are a lot of expensive bulbs witch have that solution included). Only cheap bulbs blink.
Here is a scheme in English.
If they are in series removing one bulb would cause all to go dark. I seriously doubt the lights are connected in this manner. If removing one doesn't extinguish all others then they are in parallel.
The reason 2 lights work normally when the other three bulbs are removed is because you have reduced the load by 3/5ths and the voltage drop is much less. The capacitor you currently have in place is apparently passing just enough current to supply two bulbs.
If you have capacitors available start placing the caps in parallel until all 5 lights are burning normally. You can do this as a test outside the box. When you have it working this way then add up all the capacitor values and order yourself a single capacitor of that size.
This is intended to overcome any possible language issue.
Here is a solution scheme for multi-gang switches.
If you have Live and Ground wires it means just the same as it is NEUTRAL and LIVE.
In my schemes im talking about 3 wires. LIVE, NEUTRAL and GROUNDING. And i'm telling not to use GROUNDING wire to connect that stuff. Cause grounding is for emergency only.
If you have 2 wire system, where there is LIVE and GROUND, you should consider GROUND and NEUTRAL the same.
I guess you are going to make them turn on/off simultaniosely. There will be one zone of ligh, not 10 zones.And you will connect all LEDs in parallel connection. And you will use 1-gang wall switch to turn all of them on/off.
You dont need C2 because you ve got many LED spots, and I think that current in OFF postion of the switch will be too small to make LEDs blink.
Yep, aproximately 1uF for 5Watts. But i did not tested this solution for 60Hz. Onle 50Hz. Try it by yourself.
You are welcome.
Try 4,7 micro Farades.
What he is saying is do some rerouting in the light bulb junction box. In old construction typically the feed wire from the breaker/fuse panel containing the L and N came to the light bulb junction box in the ceiling. The circuit was broken by running two wires to the switch.
1. Disconnect the switch and replace with wifi switch using existing two wires as L and N.
2. In the ceiling junction box tie the 2 wires going to the switch to L and N.
3. Connect a Sonoff Basic between L and N in the ceiling box to the light bulb.
Now you have the wall switch fully powered by L and N. Use a scene that turns on the Basic when the wall switch is turned on and off when the wall switch is turned off.
Worked like a charm!!! :) Feel stupid about wrong wiring :D
Even the LED bulbs do not buzzz as with my Broadlink TC2 switch which does not need Neutral.
BTW i tried with 1.5 - 2.2 - 3.3 - 4.7 uF and 5W and 11W LED bulbs (all the combinations),
no difference at all. Always works. No change in brightness or anything.
I had to put a 1uF in parallel (i dont have smaller one) to the bulbs because i had flicker.
What will be the effect of bigger C2? Less brightness of Bulb ?
I don't think it can draw more current in Off position than the required by Sonoff itself right ?
I cannot pull a neutral wire without tearing down the walls in my new house. Maybe in a few years when I will probably renovate, I will do that.
What's so wrong about this way of installing?