Hello from cold Russia.
1)Don't use the grounding wire to connect N pin on your wall switch. If you don't want to win Darwin award.
Look at the first picture.
2)Use capasitors to connect the switch and the bulb.
Look at the second picture.
C1 - Capacity. Metal-film capacitor for 400 volts.
It works as a "quenching capacitor" or "resistance". In order for the "part of the current" to remain on the switch and feed it, in the switched on position of the key.
C2 - Capacity. Metal-film capacitor for 400 volts.
Works as a "bypass" resistor. Serves to ensure that energy-saving gas-discharge or LED lamps do not blink (from the current passing through them supplying the switch) in the off position of the key.
You dont need C2 because you ve got many LED spots, and I think that current in OFF postion of the switch will be too small to make LEDs blink.
Yep, aproximately 1uF for 5Watts. But i did not tested this solution for 60Hz. Onle 50Hz. Try it by yourself.
Actually this is a "classic" solution for the RF switches that don't need a NULL line (like Livolo). They maintain a residual charge for the electronics.
That is why those switches come with a capacitor in the box, to be put in parallel with the LED bulb to prevent flickering.
If you have like 4 or more LED bulbs the capacitor is needless because they don't flicker anymore.
Just like this scheme. And since those work reliable with no issues, I believe this solution for Sonoff switch is OK.
whole idea looks interesting but need some clarification:
on yours diagrams you've mentioned 2 wires: Neutral and Live while most of us got Ground and Live wires only so would you be able to do another diagram with L/G wires by any chance?
Thanks in advance
If you have Live and Ground wires it means just the same as it is NEUTRAL and LIVE.
In my schemes im talking about 3 wires. LIVE, NEUTRAL and GROUNDING. And i'm telling not to use GROUNDING wire to connect that stuff. Cause grounding is for emergency only.
If you have 2 wire system, where there is LIVE and GROUND, you should consider GROUND and NEUTRAL the same.
that clarifies it :)
one thing, what C1 value would be sufficient for approx 30W LED (3 x 10W LED bulbs)
You are welcome.
Try 4,7 micro Farades.
ok, hooked up my switch but it wont stay on .
gotta add that I've tried with 3.3 and 6.6uF ...any idea, @sshRage ?
my connection diagram attached.
will try it later on
I followed sshRage's instructions and I did it. My 2 gang switch works like a charm.
I used a 4.7 micro farad, 250V capacitor, like the one in the picture below. This was olso the first time for me soldering things, but all went perfect.
Thank you sshRage!!
This is the capacitor:
And this is the wiring:
My happiness was short. After about 2 minutes of staying on the lights went off by themselves. I turned them on again and they turned off again. When I turned them on the third time, they stayed on for about 1 minute after which the capacitor blew :))))))).
Please read my post very carefully. DO NOT USE polarised capacitors. See my first scheme. There is a picture of capacitors. ONLY metal film condecors
Polarised capacity is for DC. Metal-Film capacity is for AC. Of course your capacity blew. It is strange why it did not blew at first time you made your scheme... And it survived for several minutes...
Use onle metal film capacity, like on the picture on my first scheme.